The beaches of Tarifa (and their associated water sports) are a short walk from this hidden hotel in a 17th-century palace in the old town. The ten bedrooms are white and airy — think Juliet balconies hiding behind billowing ivory drapes — and there’s a sauna, plus acupuncture and massages on request. The hotel staff can also rent out bikes, book kitesurfing and windsurfing lessons, and organise guided tours to Morocco just across the water.